The journal

Read before you pack

Honest, on-the-ground notes on solo travel, surf and slow living in Tamraght, Morocco.

A hand-painted house front with a blue door in a village near Tamraght, Morocco

Solo Female Travel in Morocco: The Honest Guide, Written from a Surf Village

Is Morocco safe for solo female travelers? Yes, here is the honest guide to safety, clothes, taxis, souks and evenings. Written from Tamraght, a surf village near Agadir.

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Ochre houses and the mosque minaret of Tamraght village, Morocco

Tamraght or Taghazout? What Really Awaits You in the Bay

Tamraght vs Taghazout for your first surf trip in Morocco? Atmosphere, budget, beaches and evenings: the honest comparison, written on the ground.

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A white minaret above the fishing port of Agadir, with the bay behind

Agadir Airport to Taghazout: Transfers, Taxis & Prices, Step by Step

How to get from Agadir airport to Taghazout or Tamraght? Transfers, official taxis, prices in dirhams, euros and pounds, late arrivals and the step-by-step route.

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An open suitcase packed for a Morocco surf week, linen, swimsuit, straw hat, sunscreen, on a Berber rug

What to Pack for Morocco: Surf Week Packing List

What to wear in Morocco for a surf week: village clothes, beachwear, evenings, sun protection and what to leave at home. A practical packing list tested in Tamraght.

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A surf coach demonstrating the pop-up on the sand while a beginner stands on her board

“I’ve Never Surfed and I’m Not Sporty”: Your First Lesson, Honestly Told

Want to learn to surf as an adult but feel nervous? Here is your first surf lesson hour by hour: fear, wipeouts, laughter and the first wave you will remember.

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A surfer riding a longboard while two others wait for the next wave

Going on a Retreat Alone: 7 Honest Answers

Thinking of booking a solo yoga surf retreat without knowing anyone? Here are the 7 honest answers: group, ages, rooms, budget, loneliness and cancellation.

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A surfer wading into the water at Devil's Rock, Tamraght, with others already riding waves behind him

When Should You Come Surf in Morocco? The Month-by-Month Truth

When is the best time to surf in Morocco? Month-by-month guide to swell, water, crowds, and why spring and autumn beat winter if you're learning.

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Three surfers riding a wave with the hillside village of Taghazout in the background

The Bay's Surf Spots, Level by Level, Written from Ten Minutes Away

Every surf spot around Taghazout and Tamraght sorted by real level, where you'll actually surf this week, and which waves to admire from the cliff.

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A full Moroccan breakfast spread on a tiled table, seen from above, with mint tea, bread and jam

What a Surf Week in Morocco Really Costs

The real budget for a surf week in Morocco: hostel, surf camp or all-inclusive house. Three formulas compared, including the costs headline prices leave out.

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Two surfers stretching on the beach beside a large rock formation before a session

Surf Camp or Surf House? The Question Changes After 30

Classic surf camp or calm surf house? Dorms, group size, evenings, rhythm: the real differences for choosing your stay once you have passed 30.

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Turquoise natural pools at Paradise Valley, framed by ochre cliffs and palm trees

A Flat Day: The Day Morocco Actually Begins

No swell today? Paradise Valley, hammam, sandboarding, Moroccan cooking: what we actually do around Tamraght when the ocean takes a rest.

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Steam rising from a freshly served tagine in an outdoor Moroccan kitchen, more tagines simmering behind it

Eating in Tamraght: The Map Nobody Gave You

Eating in Tamraght and Taghazout: the Moroccan dishes to know, the vegetarian spots, prices in dirhams, and why you should carry cash.

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